On our last morning in Nyaung Shwe, we woke early and after a quick breakfast our bus picked us up to take us to the airport. Joseph, while telling us the details of the day, let us know that the airport was called "Heho Airport.' Of course Tom (and probably Phil, but I can't remember for sure!) both started whistling the song from the seven dwarves "hi ho, hi ho, it's of to work we go!" Though I was laughing while this was taking place I was also sad knowing that this was the last day for our group to be together.
We arrived at Heho Airport (so cheerful sounding!) and boarded our flight on Yangon Airways, bound for Rangoon. After an uneventful flight we arrived in Rangoon and headed towards our hotel, Asia Plaza. Traffic was SO BAD! It took us about an hour to drive what had taken 30 minutes previously. It seemed that the monsoon had arrived in full throng while we had been absent from Rangoon - rain was sheeting down and you could almost see the humidity in the air. We dropped our bags at the hotel, and then Barbara, Eleonore, Joseph, Sanjay, Mez and I went to a peace conference that Joseph had told us about.
Burma has been a war torn country for many many years. Surprisingly, the last truly peaceful time that the country knew was under British colonization. Many of the elder generation referred to the time with the Raj as "the Golden Years." One of the big issues that has been taking place with the military regime in place is the war in the North, the Kachin region. This is the region that Joseph is from, and he told us about a peace conference that was being held in Rangoon that afternoon and asked if any of us would like to go. Everyone but Tom and Phil did, so once we had checked in at the hotel we grabbed umbrellas and hopped in taxis to attend. We first went to a Kachin restaurant. Joseph was so excited to have us try the traditional food of his people, and we were too. It was DELICIOUS! Possibly one of the best meals of our whole trip. We had this delicious spiced beef with coriander and chilis, mashed potatoes with garlic and veggies, steamed greens with taro, and a really delicious soup.
After we had stuffed ourselves we walked toward the conference, which was being held in a Baptist Church. When we arrived we had to sign in, and there were the nicest people there welcoming everyone and helping us get registered. This conference was being help on the day of the three year anniversary of the resumption of fighting in Kachin.
Here is the first paragraph on the Statement that was issued to President Thein Sein and the Government of Myanmar.
"While there is a pretense that the Union Peacemaking Working Committee is conducting meetings on a ceasefire agreement to end the more than sixty-year long civil war between the Government, Military, and ethnic armed groups - current clashes in Kachin regions, Ta-ang Palaung regions, and Shan State are witness to the miliary's serious offensive. Civil society organizations, networks, and people who desire genuine and just peace profoundly demand the respective Government, Hluttaw (parliaments) and the Myanmar Military to contemplate the following points to prove their willingness for genuine peace."
(I'm not going to type all of the 10 points, just a few)
To immediately stop the current fighting and conduct urgent meetings with respective ethnic organizations.
To remove or withdraw troops from positions neighboring camps where Internationally Displaced Persons are being sheltered - these are civilians.
Without delay, stop committing war crimes such as the arbitrary arrest of civilians, threatening civilians, destroying public goods, dropping heavy artillery shells on villages, invading IDP camps and/or committing sexual violence against women, and to investigate perpetrators and punish promptly and effectively.
We weren't there for much of the conference, but I am so glad that we went. Mez pointed out how wonderful it was to see the youth so involved with a cause like this - there were so many teenagers and university students involved. Once again, the student population of Burma speaks out for peace for the nation.
I'll try to post some links at the end of this with more information about the region and what is going on. I am so glad that we attended. It is hard to believe that, this whole time we have been enjoying this beautiful country, war crimes have been taking place in the North. Fortunately, Joseph told us, it is far enough away from where he lives that his family is safe. Anything is too close to home, however.
After the conference ended we went back to the hotel and cleaned up before heading down to The Strand hotel to have a happy hour farewell drink. Remember the pictures I posted of The Strand from the beginning of the trip? Luxurious hotel from the time of the Raj - we made ourselves comfy in the bar and enjoyed drinks and talking together. After this we went to a restaurant called Monsoon for our farewell (sob!) dinner. Monsoon features cuisine from all of South East Asia, and it was really fun to contemplate the huge menu and decide from which country we wished to eat! We got one last bottle of the yummy Sauvignon Blanc wine that we had in Inle Lake, and proceeded to have a fabulous last dinner together. Lots of joking and laughing, maybe a few tears, and many group photos.
Reluctant to end our night, we decided to go to the Sky Bistro, a bar/restaurant that is on the 20th floor of a skyscraper near our hotel. We had a table right by the window that looked directly at the Sule Paya, and from the other windows we had an amazing vantage of the city at night. I think that, in the future, when I think of Burma that is one of the first shots that will come to my mind. Relaxing at the table, looking around at the faces of my now dear friends, with the spectacular view behind them.
At the beginning of the trip, we asked Joseph how the Burmese say "cheers!" We wanted to be using the correct term while toasting one another, after all. He said "Aung Min Bar Zay!" It sounds like Amen-Bozzy, so Mez and I made up a little ditty to help us remember it. Amen is what you say before you eat (when you pray) and Bozzy is like buzzy, which is what happens after a drink! Perfect and easy to remember. The direct translation is "May success attend you." Beautiful.
On Tuesday morning we all had breakfast together, before Phil, Eleonore, and Mez departed for the airport. They were the first to leave. It was so sad saying goodbye!!! I definitely had tears in my eyes, and then when I got back to Mez and my room and she wasn't there I thought "this is really happening, the trip is over!" So sad to say goodbye to lovely new friends. Sanjay and I decided to walk around the city, and we invited Tom, but he said he wanted to go back to sleep (he later told us that he, actually, had breakfast with two German girls! Sly flox). Barbara was doing the Urban Adventure tour that I did my first day in the city, so Sanjay and I headed off to wander. We thought we were getting lost, turns out that we accidentally came out right where we wanted to at the end of our walk!
The most interesting thing that we saw was a local market that was taking place on a side street of the city. Bowls of vegetable were laid down the road, with strips on either side that were empty. We weren't quite sure why, until we heard honking and realized that cars were still coming down this street, just driving over the goods in the middle! This was a pretty intense market. There were chickens in cages that people were choosing and then having butchered, and the most interesting (shocking?) thing of all was the frogs. There was this lady selling fish, and she also had a big bowl of frogs next to her. Someone would walk up, point at a frog, she would pick it up, whack it onto its back on a stump, stun it on the throat with a butcher knife, chop off the feet and legs, and then disembowel it. I have a strong stomach and I was pretty grossed out. We moved on quickly after that! We had a short stroll through the Bogyoke market, and then stepped into a Western coffee bar, Bar Boon, for a cold drink and some people watching. We ended up sitting on their patio for several hours, just talking and watching the world go by. The monsoon came in with amazing force while we were there - we could tell when it was coming because all of the vendors would suddenly start throwing plastic sheets over their goods. It was amazing! The rain was coming down almost sideways - the perfect excuse for us to stay sitting where we were and have another iced coffee. I had the most delicious lemongrass iced tea!
We then walked back to the hotel, and it was time for Sanjay and Tom to leave. After another sad good bye, I went back to my room to wait for Barbara. When she returned we walked to Ruby Mart and got a healthy and delish lunch of 7Up and chips - haha! The lucky girl was flying back to Bangkok - she has another full year of travel to look forward to! I can't wait to keep up with your blog, Barbara! :)
We had a great time just relaxing and talking together, and then she left - so sad! By now it was 3:00 and I had to leave for the airport at 6:00. I went out to another little coffee shop and just relaxed, reading and writing and people watching. Then I went back, showered, finished packing, and grabbed a taxi.
After my escapades in China on the way over, I was quite nervous about getting checked in ok in Rangoon. I arrived at the airport super early so that I would have plenty of time. I got there at 6:55 and my flight left at 9:45 pm. After the taxi dropped me, I went to the ANA check in counter. Much to my joy, they had no problem finding my reservation and definitely knew where Tokyo was (haha!). They took my bag and gave me both of my boarding passes, and I headed upstairs to Immigration. Immigration took about 2 minutes and then I was done. The entire check in process took 10 minutes MAXIMUM! I love you Burma, take that China. What a relief! If you missed my debacle of a trip over, please read the second installment of my blog.
I found a seat at a cafe and ordered some yummy dinner - fried flat noodles with hot basil and veggies, as well as a final Myanmar beer. The time passed quickly and before I knew it it was time for my flight. It was with a large amount of sadness that I boarded that plane. This trip had been so amazing and even though I was ready to be home, I wasn't ready for it to end! The flight to Tokyo was less than half full, so I had my two chairs to myself. I watched a movie and then slept for about 4 hours. The 7 hour flight passed quickly, and before I knew it I was in Tokyo! The Tokyo airport at 6 am is a total ghost town! I waited until 7:30 when the United Club opened, and then went in and spent the day there. I took a shower, ate breakfast and drank coffee, ready my book, worked on some previous blogs, and spent the day relaxing. I walked around the airport for a while (and even got some fries from McDonalds, which I NEVER go to! Yummy.) before heading back to the lounge to have some dinner. Dinner was really yummy sushi, and I felt so cool, eating sushi in Japan - I'm such a nerd. Then I headed to my gate to catch the flight to Denver. The Rangoon - Tokyo, Tokyo - Denver route is the BEST ROUTE EVER! It was so easy, had zero stress, and I would do it again in a heart beat. I think that Tokyo is now going to be the official gateway to the East for me. Why make flying harder than it has to be?
Once on the flight I was overjoyed to discover I had an entire row of three to myself! Hurray! After the awful dinner was served (which I ate none of) I watched Anchorman 2 and then took an ambien and drifted off to sleep. I woke nearly 7 hours later feeling refreshed and happy to know that we were an hour outside of Denver!
I still can't believe that this trip is over. It changed me in so many ways - the people and country of Burma have left such an impression on me, taken such a big part of my heart. I can't imagine not having been there. I'm sure that I'll be writing more on here, with impressions and such - I always really start to process things several days after a trip. As of now, to the lovely country and all of its people, as well as my new travel family, I say "Aung Min Bar Zay!" I wish nothing more than success to attend each and every one of you, and to bless the country of Burma with wishes for peace and happiness for all.
To learn more about the conflict in Kachin Region, visit: www.fortifyrights.org
The Strand Hotel
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