A Vengeful Goddess and where is my pet goat?!

Unfortunately Monday morning dawned even earlier than Sunday morning - all thanks to the three extremely loud men from Bangladesh in the room next to me. Dad and I had met them earlier in the day, and they seemed pleasant enough. This must have been before they drank their weight in who knows what, because I was awakened by them at 0200 getting back to their room, turning on loud music, and then proceeding to sing along to their music and laugh at what must have been hilarious jokess that they were telling one another. This went on for about 45 minutes until they finally succumbed to their drunken state. Let the record show that we are staying in a very small town, and our hotel is outside of the town, and we just have the one bar with the very kind local bartender. That poor man must have been at his wits end taking care of them until 2 in the morning!

I managed to go back to sleep until about 0430 - progress! Then when I woke I ran outside to look for stars and mountains. I was a bit too early, so went back inside and read. I went back out around 530 and was treated to a lovely sunrise. I met my parents and the group for breakfast, and learned that my parents had suffered from these drunk men as well, even though they were two doors down from me. Apparently when the men came back from the bar (and I think its amazing that they didn't fall down the four steep uneven flights of stairs we have to navigate down from the main lodge) they were walking in the gardens outside of each room, and they shined a flashlight into my parents room! We think that they were trying to find their room but couldn't remember which one it was (because they were HAMMIED) and so decided this was a great idea. After a fair amount of bellyaching by all of us, Dad went and talked to the front desk manager, who told us he'd had many complaints and would speak to them when they emerged. We went on to enjoy another amazing breakfast (I had cappucino this time - so delish) and then said goodbye to the hospital group for the day. Dad and I made plans to hike to the Kali Temple at 9, and went back to our rooms to get our gear together. Kali is the mother goddess in her most terrifying form. She sounds so friendly! 

The Kali Temple is located on the outskirts of Duhlikhel, and is a prime place to see mountains during the sunrise. Obviously we were not going to be there during sunrise, but we wanted to do the climb and enjoy the view. We set off and walked up the hill to the Arniko Highway. Walking along that for about 1/2 km, we crossed the road into Old Duhlikhel. We walked down past the bus station and up a hill. We saw so many children of all ages walking to school in their uniforms, and I think they were watching us just as much if not more than we were watching them. We reached the base of hill leading to the Kali Temple and began our ascent. To reach the hilltop and  temple you must climb 1000 steps. It was actuallly a very beautiful climb and mostly shaded by large trees. We wound our way ever higher, crossing over the road that also leads to the summit. We decided to walk on the road for one section, which was a great idea while it was paved, but about halfway it turned to large rocks and dirt. Not so great to walk on! At one point we encountered a man walking his goat on a leash! I'm sure that this poor animal was bound for a sacrifice of some sort, whether religious or for dinner, but my first thought was "I want a pet goat!!!!" To those of you that know me well, this will not surprise you in the least as you know that my dream is to open an alpaca, goat, and herb farm (with some free range chickens thrown in there). It was so cute! About halfway up we saw a closed gate that said "Shanti Bao" that led to a courtyard with a huge golden Buddha behind it. I decided to walk up and investigate if the area was open or closed. I rattled the gate to see if it was locked, and sure enough it was. Dad and I retreated to a bench to sit and catch our breath, when I saw an old man approaching the gate from the inside. Dad and I agreed that he would probably let us in if we offered him some rupees, so I pulled a 20 rs note from my bag and walked up to him. I stuck the money through the gate and he opened the gate for us! Success! We entered the courtyard and removed our shoes. From the back, it was evident that the Buddha had suffered earthquake damage. Portions of his golden robe had fallen off in the back, revealing the brick that comprised his form. The view from the platform in front of the Buddha was gorgeous - what a lovely view he has! We spent a few minutes taking photos and enjoying the peace before taking our leave, giving the kind gatekeeper another 20 rupees and a granola bar on our way out. 

We resumed our climb with new energy (thanks Buddha!) and quickly made our way to the top. We climbed another short staircase and then climbed up into a hideous concrete building that was really just a platform with a view tower, and there we found the temple of Kali. I think that Kali must have asked the earthquake to smite that area particularly becuase her temple was quite small and squalid. The platform upon which it was built seemed mostly solid, but the view tower, while standing, was a mess. I foolishly decided to climb up to the top. So.... I have this fear of heights. I don't let it stop me from doing things, but it often strikes me when least expected and ALWAYS makes my feet tingle. I had to climb this metal spiral staircase to the top of the tower (where the walls had all fallen off, by the way!) and my feet were going CRAZY! Yikes. Scary. I took a few pictures and made my way down as quickly as possible. Which was actually most likely quite slowly. 

I made it safely back down and with relief went up to Dad. We drank some water and decided to head back down! We were getting hungry and it was getting hot. On our way down we ran into Lori and Sally, from the hospital group, making their way up. We had told them about the hike and were happy to see them! We walked back through Duhlikhel towards the hotel, checking out a restaurant that we had heard was decent on the way. It was not decent. It smelled like urine, was filthy, and we did an immediate about face to head back to our hotel restaurant. After a great lunch on the balcony overlooking the Himalayas, I prepared to visit Namo Budd. I've copied and pasted the history of Namo Buddha below because its really long!

The Ancient Story of Namo Buddha

A long time in the past, many immeasurable eons ago, our teacher the perfect Buddha was practicing on the path of learning. Below is the story of how he was overcome with compassion when he saw a tigress tormented by starvation and offered his body to her without a moment’s hesitation.

In the distant past, there lived in this world a king named Great Charioteer (Shingta Chenpo) who ruled over a small kingdom of some five thousand subjects. Due to the king’s accumulation of merit, all his subjects enjoyed happiness and well being; rains came at the right time while crops and livestock flourished. The king had three sons: the oldest was named Great Sound (Dra Chenpo), the middle Great Deity (Lha Chenpo), and the youngest Great Being (Semchen Chenpo). Powerful in the martial arts and radiating confidence, the two elder sons always helped the king in governing the kingdom. From his earliest years, the youngest son, Great Being, was very bright and endowed with spontaneous kindness and compassion. He gave freely and generously to others as if to his only child.

One day when the weather was fine, the king along with his queen, sons, and ministers left the town for a relaxing time in the country. The king and queen rode upon an elephant while the sons, ministers, and retinue were mounted on beautiful horses. After half a day’s ride, they arrived at a place of thickly wooded forests resonant with birdsong while nearby blossomed a tapestry of flowers in rich variety. The king was pleased with the scenery and ordered a large encampment to be prepared for everyone’s enjoyment. The servants immediately unpacked everything, set up tents, and laid out a hearth of stones for cooking. Soon the ground was covered with tents as clouds billowed in the sky above. The servants bustled about, preparing a variety of foods and offering tea and liquor to everyone. Then the young people began to sing, dance, and play, transforming the encampment into a celestial realm. The king, queen, and ministers watched the entertainment while enjoying an eighteen course meal accompanied by wine and sake.

Then the three princes, in the full flush of their youth, picked up their bows and arrows and headed for the forest. As they walked along, they noticed a den in the dense woods. They crept up to it and saw inside a tigress sleeping beside her cubs. Great Sound and Great Deity laid arrows on their bows, making ready to kill the tigress, but Great Being stopped his brothers, saying that killing was completely wrong. When he looked into the cave again, Great Being noticed that the tigress was not able to move, for she had just given birth and she also feared that if she left to hunt for food, another animal might harm her cubs. Tormented by hunger, she lay on the ground unable even to lift her head. Great Being was moved to tears with compassion that arose from the depths of his heart. He asked his brothers, “What
kind of food would save the tigress and her cubs?” They responded, “This kind of red Indian tiger eats the warm flesh and blood of a recent kill. So if you want to help her and the cubs, you must find flesh and blood that are fresh.”

Great Being thought for a moment: “It’s indeed true that to save the tigress and her cubs, warm flesh and blood are needed. But then I’d have to kill another living being, and that would mean killing one to save another. What else can I do?” He thought for a long while but did not find a solution. Then his brothers said, “We came out here to have a good time. It’s pointless to worry about this tigress and her cubs. It’s time to return to our parents.” And so they left.

As he followed his brothers back to the encampment, Great Being thought, “For a long time, I have been cycling in samsara, wasting countless lives, sometimes due to excessive desire, sometimes aversion, and sometimes ignorance. I have rarely met such an opportunity to accumulate merit. What real use is this body if not for the Dharma?” Finally he decided, “This time I must be truly generous.”

Before he had gone very far with his brothers, he said to them, “Brothers, you two go on ahead. I have something to take care of and will catch up with you soon.”

He took the path to the tigress’s den quickening his pace. When he found the collapsed tigress, she was so exhausted
that she could not even open her mouth. Great Living Being reached out his hand to touch her face, but she was so weakened she could not even bare her fangs. So the prince sharpened a splinter from a nearby tree and cut his body to draw blood, which he allowed the tigress to lick. Not long after, she opened her jaws and stood up. With a roar, she pounced on the prince and devoured him.

The two brothers waited a long time, but the youngest prince did not come, so they set out to find him. Reflecting on what he had said earlier, they had no doubt that he had returned to the tigress’s den. When they arrived and looked inside, there was nothing left of their brother but blood, bones, nails, and bits of clothing. The tigress had consumed him. At this sight, Great Sound and Great Deity immediately lost consciousness; it was a long time before they recovered their senses. The two gathered up the pieces of their brother’s clothing and, sobbing with deep sadness, set out for their parents’ encampment.

During this time, the queen was taking a nap and in a dream saw three doves flying high in the sky. As they fluttered around, a hawk struck and carried off the smallest one. Waking in terror, the queen immediately related her dream to the king. He replied, “Hearing your story, I believe the three doves are our three sons. The youngest of them, carried off by the hawk, is my most beloved son. I’m sure that something dreadful has happened to him.” So saying, the king immediately sent out servants to look everywhere for his son.

Soon, the two princes arrived and the king asked, “Did something bad happen to my beloved son? Do you have any news?” Choked with sadness, the two were unable to speak or even breathe for a while. Finally, they sighed deeply and told their parents that the tigress had eaten Great Being. Upon hearing this terrible news, the queen fainted right away. The king too was overwhelmed with immense sadness and tormented by sorrow. After a long while and with profound sighs, the two princes, the king, and the queen rushed to the place where the youngest prince had died. When they arrived at the opening of the den, what met their eyes were the bones and rivulets of blood left behind by the tigress. The queen recoiled, overcome with sobbing, and did not recover for a long while.

Meanwhile, the prince had been reborn as Great Courage (Nyingtob Chenpo). He wondered, “What did I do to be reborn here in the celestial realm of Tushita?” Through his divine eye, he thoroughly examined the five realms. Great Courage saw that, gathered around the bone fragments he had left behind, were his parents and two brothers. They were sunk in lamentation and completely miserable. He thought, “My parents are experiencing such unhappiness, it could threaten their very lives. To lighten their spirits, I’ll go talk to them.” He descended from space to the lofty sky and spoke words of encouragement to comfort his parents: “I’m the prince Great Being. After giving my body in generosity to the starving tigress, I was reborn in the celestial realm of Tushita.” With tears in their eyes, the king and queen said, “Son, you who are like our very heart, offering your body to the tigress was certainly most praiseworthy. But whom can we tell of our suffering in missing you?”

Great Courage replied, “Please do not be unhappy. The end of birth is disintegration, and the end of gathering is separation. No one can transcend this for it is the nature of things. It is the same for everyone. If you perform evil actions, you will fall into the hell realms; if you perform virtuous actions, you will be reborn in the higher realms. Therefore, diligently pursue virtue. Make aspiration prayers, and in the next life we will definitely meet in a celestial realm.” After a few more words, he disappeared. The king and queen became a little happier and made the commitment to pursue virtuous activity. They created a small casket covered with seven kinds of jewels in which they laid the bones of their son and a stupa was built over the place in which it was buried. 

So there is now a shrine and a monastery built on this place, and it is on top of a mountain and SUPER BEAUTIFUL! I was really excited to go there. A jeep from the hospital picked me up, and I found that Susen, the wife of the new CEO at Scheer Memorial Hospital, would be accompanying me. We bounced along the usual mostly okay roads until we came to the not so great dirt roads. It was quite apparent that this road had most likely washed away completely during the earthquake and its aftermath, and it was being rebuilt. It was a great drive up there! We wound our way ever higher, climbing through small villages. The first view of Namo Buddha, took my breath away. It looked like an eagle majestically resting on its perch. Appearing to be at ease, yet so powerful at the same time.  Our driver deposited us at the base of the monastery, and we set off on foot to explore. Walking around this monastery was an adventure in itself. Narrow pathways leading to secret shrines, winding staircases taking you to towers festooned in prayer flags, and breath taking views whereever you look. The monks were all in class when we were there at first, so we had free run of the place. We walked up a steep pathway that led to a chaitya, which is a small Buddhist monument that often has images of Buddha at the four cardinal points. There is a tea house atop this area, we stopped and ordered masala chai. I met a very nice kitty at this point -  some might say that he was the Nepalese Frank! He of course was following us around meowing. I wanted to cuddle and feed him, but both of those activities are on the no list! I'm sure he has a very nice life compared to street kittens in cities. We began to walk back toward the monastery, and encoutered a nice stupa of Buddha on the way. Once we approaced the monastery, Susen suggested we try to see if the shrine was open. It was and as an added bonus the monks were dismissed from class! They began to enter the shrine as we walked up the steps to it. No photography was allowed inside, but it was an overwhelming array of the colors of the rainbow. Blue, green, gold, red, covering everything! Filled with prayer wheels and bells and gongs and flags and beginning to teem with monks from age 5 up to who knows how old! Most of them were quite young. It was a beautiful site to see. When we began to descend from the shrine, a monk had begun the call to prayer with a gong that he had picked up and was carrying around. I would have loved to just sit in a corner and watch all the monks stream in to worship together. Alas, our time was short and we made our way back to our jeep and fearless driver. 

We bumped our way back down the road, and reached the hotel where Susen and the driver dropped me off before continuing on to the hospital. What an incredible experience! I loved the contrast of visiting a temple of a wrathful Hindi god in the morning, and a tranquil monastery focused on peace in the afternoon. 

After a shower and a small rest, Dad and I made our way up to the bar to wait for the team to return. We started talking with a Rotary Group who were mainly from Australia. They were all opticians and were in country doing eye clincis and glasses fittings. Several of them had been to Nepal more than 15 times.

It is truly wonderful to see these people that are so willing to give to others. We have met so many people while we are here that are either here for disaster relief to help with consequences from the earthquake, or to continue ongoing missions that have been established here for years. 

Global Health Initiatives has programs in Nepal, Rwanda, and Peru. The project in Nepal is focused on uterine prolapse. Women play a very important role in Nepali society, yet are given a very low status. Not only do Nepali women give birth and raise children, they also spend their days working in the fields, cooking, cleaning, and spend hours every day carrying water to their families, often touting urns weighing 30 pounds.

These cultural and gender traditions contribute to the high frequency of uterine prolapse in rural Nepal.

Uterine prolapse is a painful and debilitating condition. Many women suffer in silence in a nation that struggles with extreme poverty, only seeking help when symptoms cause them significant distress with their families.

GHI has undertaken an ambitious project in Nepal. In partnership with Scheer Memorial Hospital and ADRA-Nepal, the Nepal Women’s Health Initiative works to address complex issues surrounding the reproductive health of Nepali women with a specific focus on uterine prolapse. 

My mother has been to Nepal 11 times. Initally she was on the trips as a scrub nurse in the Operating Room. Over the years her role has evolved, and she is now focusing on women's health projects outside of the Operating Room. She is such an inspiration and role model to me. 

When she came home on Monday evening, she told us that Doctors Without Borders had come into the hospital today with a prolapse patient for them. This was amaazing for several reasons - first and foremost, the GHI project has been successful enough that a world renowned organization is aware of them and bringing them patients. It is also amazing because it means that others are paying attention to the plight of these women and working to help them as well. What an achievement and WAY TO GO MOM!

We had a nice dinner of Nepalese cuisine before calling it a night. Oh, and excellent news! The hotel had asked those obnoxious Bangladeshi men in the room next to me to leave! I happily settled into the peace and quiet of my room with the door to my garden open and the lovely night sounds coming into my room and soothing me to sleep. I was just drifting off when suddenly I head what sounded like 6 giggling girls walking down the hallway towards the room at the end of my hall. Sure enough, they were in the room next to me! They were loud, listening to music, and singing. They did quiet down rather quickly, much to my relief. Early next morning I was up drinking tea in my garden, when they came pouring outside into their garden and started walking and talking all over. They began speaking to me and I asked where they were from.... anyone have any guesses?!

If you guessed Bangladesh, you win all the prizes! Which includes buying me a pet goat. Haha!

Namaste, my dear friends. 

Inappropriate Bus Crashes and I Hope I Didn't Fall Asleep During Dinner!

Well, I wrote half of this blog earlier this morning, and somehow it was erased. Man! I hate writing things twice, because I feel like I lose a lot of the verbage I used and humor I wish to interject. Here goes again!

Sunday morning dawned bright and early. Well.... except for the bright part. I woke up at the lovely hour of 0215 and let me tell you, it was definitely not bright! In fact, I went out into my garden off of my room at the Duhliklhel Lodge Resort, hoping to see stars and the moon! All I saw were hazy skies... so back inside I went. I read.... I drank tea.... I worked on the last blog.... I finally went back to sleep at 0500 and slept until 0615. Thanks jet lag! It have been worse. I actually felt decently rested when I went up to breakfast. How delicious breakfast is here definitely helped me rouse! Excellent potatoes cooked in spices with onion and pepper, channa masala (chikpeas cooked in masala spices), fresh fruit, and freshly made omelets. Mom clued me in that if you ask, they'll make your omelet with spicy peppers instead of the mild kind, and it is so yummy! Breakfast of kinds, in my opinon. All washed down with a masala chai - great way to start the day! The Himalaya's have also been showing off for us since we've been here. Early every morning I'm greeted with a great treat during sunrise, where the sun illuminates the high peaks. Others have said that it can be difficult to see the peaks from here, whereas we've seen them everyday. I'm sure that the lack of pollution can be attributed to thedecreased  emissions from cars due to the fuel crisis, and though that has made transportation difficultt at times, I'm very thankful to be able to see the mountains so well. 

Dad and I made plans to go to Panauti, 7 km south of Banepa (where the hospital is) in the morning. I had originally typed out my own version of the following information about Panauti, but I really don't feel like doing it again! The following is from Rough Guides website about Panauti, and its the same information that is in my guide book. Incidentally, if you're looking for a good guide book brand, I would highly recommend Rough Guides. I've used their books for many countries and have really liked them.

"Built on a single stratum of rock, PANAUTI is said to be the safest place in these parts to be when the next big earthquake hits. The best-preserved Newari town after Bhaktapur, it’s an enticing enough place at any time, leading a self-sufficient existence in its own small valley 7km south of Banepa. Its centre is a perfect nugget of extended family dwellings, temples and public meeting houses, all built in the Newars’ signature pink brick and carved wood, and at the bottom end is a cluster of riverside temples and ghats.

Wedged between the Punyamati and Roshi streams, Panauti forms the shape of a triangle, with a serpent (nag) idol standing at each of its three corners to protect against floods. Buses pull up at the newer northwest corner, but the oldest and most interesting sights are concentrated at the streams’ confluence at the east end of town, approached through a distinctive entry gate.

The shrine area at the sacred confluence, known as the Khware or Tribeni Ghat, is a tranquil spot. The large sattal (pilgrims’ house) here sports an eclectic range of frescoes depicting scenes from Hindu (and sometimes Buddhist) mythology: Vishnu in cosmic sleep, Ram killing the demon king Ravana, and Krishna being chased up a tree by a pack of naked gopi (milkmaids). Krishna is the featured deity of the pagoda temple next door, too, where he’s shown serenading his gopi groupies with a flute. Other small shrines dotted around the complex are dedicated to just about every deity known to Hinduism.

The Khware has been regarded as a tirtha (place of sacred power) since ancient times, and on the first day of the month of Magh (usually Jan 14), it draws hundreds for ritual bathing. Beside the river, the tombstone-shaped ramps set into the ghats are where dying people are laid out, allowing their feet to be immersed in the water at the moment of death. Orthodox cremations are held at the actual confluence, but local Newars are cremated on the opposite bank, apparently to prevent their ghosts troubling the town.

Read more: http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/asia/nepal/the-central-hills/the-arniko-highway/panauti/#ixzz3nmTdWtxR

So Dad and I had a car picking us up at the hotel at 1000, and our driver showed up early and in a van similar to the old Toyota 4 wheel drive van my parents had when I was a kid. Those things are TANKS and can go anywhere. Perhaps that should have been an omen about the road that lay ahead of us!

Our driver was very polite and an excellent driver, and I wish I could tell you his name, but he spoke absolutely no English at all and therefore I have no idea. He is also a brave man. We drove back along the Arniko Highway to Banepa, and then turned south. I made the mistake (what a rookie move!) of saying how nice the road was, and it immediately turned to absolute crap. I think that even before the earthquake and subsequent landslides it was probably mediocre at best. However, this presented no challenge for our fearless driver! Remember that basically all roads in third world countries are at best two lanes, generally one large lane, and used as at least three to four lanes. He barrelled confidently along in our non-Toyota van, expertly avoiding huge boulders and ditches that seemingly emerged from nowhere. Suddenly, he had to hit the brakes. We were in a "town" which was really just an area in which there were more than five buildings in a row, and two buses on the road ahead of us had become locked in a passionate embrace. Ok fine, they had tipped into each other and were stuck. Same difference! There was quite the log jam of motorbikes, trucks, and vans waiting to be able to sneak around the low speed non accident accident. Incident? We'll go with incident. So Dad and I hopped out of the van to get a closer look. Many locals were helping to prop up one of the buses wheels with wooden slats to lift the bus high enough that the two vehicles could detach without damage to either. We watched this for a few minutes until we realized that it was much more fun to watch all of the locals watching the chaos. Families of four on motorbikes, buses crammed full of people, open back trucks delivering anything and everything to people outside of the cities. I love people watching, and this was wonderful! 

Finally they had success and the buses detached. Then of course we had to wait for the jam to clear, and we were on our way! Bouncing along this dirt road, dodging obstacles of all kinds including children and kids (kids as in goats!), rocks and ditches, chickens and dogs, we arrived in Panauti. Our driver dropped us in the main square, and we took off. Actually we had no idea where we were going, so we slowly began walking in what seemed to be a good direction. Miraculously, it was the correct one! We crossed under a gate and entered the old town. The Newari architecture there was just fabulous. It is like a mini Bhaktapur except I found it to be better. No tourists AT ALL! No cars. Just the occassional motorbike, the locals, and Dad and myself. We walked past shrines, and cisterns, and tiny shops, schools and vocational academies, women drying their rice in the sun, women shaking their rice in woven baskets to rid the grains of the husks, dogs sleeping in the shade, children playing - we had stepped back in time. When we got to the Khware, we saw all that the guidebook described, and it was beautiful. I had not expected to find such tranquility, after the mayhem of Bhaktapur. If you come to Nepal you must visit Panauti - but if you don't come visit DON'T TELL ANYONE or else it will become crowded and commercialized! We spent an hour or so walking around, enjoying the peace before heading back to our driver and van. 

The drive back was much less eventful, and after about 30 minutes of bumping along a dusty road, we reached the hotel. We had lunch and rested for a bit before deciding to walk into Duhlikhel, the town that our hotel is just barely outside of. It turns out its only a five minute walk into the town, and more specifically into the old part of the town that contains the temples we wished to visit. We knew the general direction in which we were heading, and we soon realized that we had no idea where we actually were. Both Dad and I enjoy what we call "being the right amount of lost." It means that you aren't actually lost, there's no danger, and you can most likely easily figure out where you need to be. We wandered up and down streets until we found a temple, then walked into the temple compound and enjoyed the views. Then we went back onto the streets, winding our way around until we magically ended up where we had wanted to! We had a map but didn't use it. Ah yes, being the right amount of lost is the best. We grabbed a spot on a curb and watched the world go by. School had just adjourned for the day, so we watched the children of all ages walking home - and we watched them watching us! By this time it was about 4:30, and we walked back to the hotel for a quick shower and happy hour in my parents room before dinner. Happy hour consists of gin and tonic and delish local potato chips!

We walked up to dinner, and I mostly remember dinner before my exhaustion overtook me. At the conclusion of the meal Dad and I said our goodnights and somehow safely stumbled down the three steep flights of stone steps to our room. I took a shower and immediately collapsed into bed! What a fabulous day in Nepal. 

Sacred Goats and More Samosas, Please!

We arrived in Kathmandu at 0900 on Saturday morning.We felt decently rested, considering the cumulative 18 hours of flight time we had. We were extremely fortunate to have our upgrade request granted on the Newark to Delhi flight - we paid a fee and a certain amount of miles to be added to  the Business/First upgrade list. When we checked in in Denver, we were told that we were number 1 and 2 on the list! Upon landing in Newark we received emails notifying us that we had been upgraded. HURRAY! 

This means that we were able to sit in the pods that turn into flat beds, and were served delicious meals and excellent wines. I felt extremely pampered - after dinner and a few movies, I took an Ambien and slept for nearly 7 hours. That certainly made the 13 hour flight go by much more quickly!

Upon arrival in Delhi, Dad and I braced ourselves for Immigration, bag retrieval, Customs, and navigating our way to the transit hotel where we had booked a reservation for the night, as we had 8 hours between arrival in Delhi and our flight to Kathmandu. Everything was astonishingly easy! Or perhaps it was just normal easy and I'm easily impressed after my nightmare situation in Chengdu. After waiting about five minutes for my bag (Dad's came off nearly immediately) we went through Customs, which was really just walking through an area marked Customs with no one there paying attention to people coming in. Then we made our way up to Level 2, the departure level. From the international visitors lounge there, we placed a call to the transit hotel, and were met by a very kind man who took us to the hotel and helped us get checked in. Dad and I thankfully showered and immediately went to bed. 0500 came fairly quickly, but I felt quite rested and ready to go and I believe that Dad did as well.

We checked out of the hotel, the concierge took us to the check in counter for Air India, and my goodness those employees at check in were some jolly men! They were laughing and joking with us while they printed our boarding cards and checked our bags. Dad and I made our way through security and entered the departure area, otherwise known as Duty Free Mecca. I've traveled a lot and seen a lot of Duty Free areas, but this was pretty crazy! Shops all crowded together and brightly lit for quite a few minutes of walking. We escaped this area and stopped in a coffee shop for an Americano and croissant to go. Sustenance in hand, we found our gate and enjoyed our food. Once on the plane, we only had about an hour and a half flight to look forward to. I love looking at people on small flights like this. Who are the predominant travelers, tourists or locals? This flight had a decent mix of both. There were quite a few Nepali and Indian people, and perhaps about 20 Western tourists. We were served a mostly awful meal (now thats the airplane food we're all used to! haha) and were informed we were about to begin our descent. I happened to casually glance out the window to my left, and BAM - oh hi Himalaya mountain range! It took my breath away. We were low enough now that we were practically parrallel to the peaks and they were proudly showing off their snowcapped summits, brilliant white snow and glacial ice sparkling and shimmering in the sun. I wasn't in a window seat, so I handed my dad my phone to snap a few pictures. The plane landed, we all disembarked and hopped onto a bus that looked so old I'm confident Ghandi himself may have ridden it. This bus took us all of 1 Km to the entrance to the airport (whew, long distance!) and Dad I filled out our Immigration cards, got our Nepal visas (SUPER EASY! You go to a computer and scan your passport. Then it brings up several forms where you ensure all of your information is correct and add the information where you'll be staying in Nepal and for how long.) Then it brings up a camera which takes a Vogue worthy photo of your jet lagged self (frizzy humid hair and exhausted pale skin to boot! Hello Paris fashion week!) before printing you a receipt of your visa. Then you go to a counter and pay a nice man $25 - what a bargain! Dad and I then changed money into Rupees (exchange rate is 100 to 1, favoring the USD). We went to collect our bags and this time mine came off immediately and we waited for his. At least we're even, right?

What we did next is one of my absolute favorite parts of traveling to a new country. We walked outside. 

Now granted, this is always sensory overload but I LOVE IT! All the of the sights and smells, feeling the weather, seeing the people - welcome to Nepal! The air was scented with woodsmoke, and smelled relatively crisp. This was surprising because Kathmandu has a terrible air pollution problem. The sun was shining and it was warm and humid but not too extreme of either. Dad and I were met by our driver from my mother's friend Bijesh's company. He picked us up and we headed off to Bhaktapur, to meet the GHI group that is here with Mom. This is a surgical trip, with both gynecological and hand surgery (different surgeons, of course!). I will give lots more information about what they are doing here in another post. 

We bumped along a typical third world highway - ostensibly two lanes, really turned into four. Cars and pedestirans and tractors and motorbikes and animals all jockeying for their own piece of the road. I was surprised that the road seemed to be in quite good condition (again, good being a relative term). The drive to Bhaktapur from Kathmandu took about 15 minutes and before we knew it we were rolling up at the entrance to the ancient city. 

"In the soft, dusty light of evening the old city of Bhaktapur, with its pagoda roofs and its harmonious blend of wood, mud-brick, and copper, looked extraordinarily beautiful It was as though a faded medieval tapestry were tacked on to the pale tea-rose sky." Charlie Pye-Smith, Travels in Nepal

Sadly, Bhaktapur was quite damaged in the earthquake. Many of its iconic buildings and monuments lie in crumbled ruins, including the arch at the entrance as well as several temples, portions of the palace, and other ancient buildings.

The "City of Devotees" was most likely founded in the ninth century, and by 1200 it was ruling Nepal. In that year Bhaktapur witnessed the launch of the Malla era when, according to the Nepali chronicles, King Aridev, upon being called out of a wrestling bout to hear of the birth of a son, bestowed upon the prince the hereditary title of Malla ("wrestler"). To this day, beefy carved wrestlers are are the city's trademark temple guardians. Bhaktapur ruled the valley until 1482, when Yaksha Malla divided the kingdom among his three sons, setting in train three centuries of continuous squabbling. It was a Bhaktapur king who helped bring the Malla era to a close in 1766 by inviting Prithvi Narayan Shah, the Gorkha leader, to aid him in a quarrel against Kathmandu. Siezing on this pretext, Prithvi Narayan conquered the valley within three years, Bhaktapur being the last of the three capitals to surrender. Bhaktapur is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and hopefully that status will help enable them to rebuild in a manner in keeping with the history of the destroyed buildings. 

I enjoyed our walking tour of the city - the ancient part of the city is nearly all pedestrian. Occasionally a motor bike would whiz by, but generally speaking it was all people on foot. I wish that our guide had been more informative, but that is ok. Our entrance ticket is good for one week - I would like to read up on the old city and then go back. The beauty of the city is undeniable - it is easy to imagine 11th century people wandering the streets, trading and talking. At one point I could tell that we were approaching a square. I looked up, and what was the first thing that I saw? Goats lounging at the foot of the temple. Sacred goats! While we were wandering the alleys I took advantage of the time to observe the local people going about their daily business. Women doing washing in cisterns, children kicking soccer balls and flying makeshift kites, men hawking their wares at their stalls, young Buddhist monks walking for their morning alm collection. Many of the buildings damaged in the earthquake are currently being propped up with wooden or steel braces to help prevent the buildings from collapsing further. In the case of many of the buildings, half of the building was destroyed and the other half was perfectly intact. Many of these buildings had grass and trees growing on the roofs, adding to the picturesque charm. I took photos of the important buildings, but I took more photos of the local people, of the small details that I love seeing - a child being carried in its mothers arms, a family of four on a motorbike, small plants growing in the cracks of ancient masonry.

While strolling the streets I saw a vendor selling freshly made samosas. My mouth began watering and I asked our guide if these were safe to eat - my logic being that the filling of potatoes, peas, and spices are all precooked and then the samosa is fried in boiling fat - and he said that they were. I asked if the rest of group wanted one, two other people said yes. Mom and I split one and it was TO DIE FOR DELICIOUS! One man in the hospital group told me that I was courting certain death - I'm happy to report that not only am I alive and well, I have had zero GI distress thus far. I think that eating street food is safe as long as you are extremely careful about what it is. It is generally good idea to check with your guide, as they often know or have previously seen the vendor and their habits.

Now I will wax poetic about the samosa. Crisp, still hot pastry from the frying oil stuffed with the best mixture I have ever tasted - it was still the potatoes, peas, and spices but the spices were incredible. It didn't have much fire at the first bite, but it had a slow burn that built into this incredibly pleasant warmth in my belly and the back of my throat. Most of all, it left me wanting more. I'll be repeating that experience as soon as possible!

We soon stopped for lunch at a beautiful restaurant in the Taumahdi Tol Square, Cafe Nayatopola. While the view was lovely, the food was not as great. Don't mistake me, it wasn't bad, and if I had not just had that samosa, I probably would have thought nothing of it. I had paneer masala with rice, and while it was good, it was not very flavorful. I happily ate it anyway though! 

After this we walked around the square. I climbed up to the top of the Nyatapola pagoda. It is five tiered and the tallest in Nepal. The stairs were quite shalllow and slippery, and I was a little nervous coming back down! It was quite hot at this point, so Mom and I walked Dad back to Durbar Square, the main entrance square, where he found a shady cafe. She and I then walked around more of the city, including Potter's Square where we watched craftsmen making pots, candle holders, and other goods as they have for centuries. After this we walked back to where Dad was, and ordered water and I ordered lemon grass tea - my favorite! Sitting in the shady cafe was very pleasant after walking in the sun. We then walked back to the entrance area where the group spent some time browsing in the textile shop of Bijesh's brother. Textiles are my big weakness, and I bought two lovely patterns of fabric. One for myself, and one for a certain best friend who loves elephants (we'll see if she reads this and the surprise is ruined, hah!). Then it was onto our bus for a winding road through the valley to Dhulikhel, where we are staying. The drive was absolutely beautiful. The land is lush and green, and the hills are terraced with rice paddies. At the top of a high point is a huge statue of Lord Shiva, looking down upon the land. 

As we passed through towns I could smell incense wafting through the air, mingling amongst the other smells of exhaust and humans and animals. We arrived at our lovely hotel, the Dhulikhel Lodge, which is perched on the side of a hill, overlooking the valley. My parents and I went to our rooms, and Dad and I showered (I only rinsed off due to FREEZING water!) and changed. Then Mom and I walked up the hill to a little corner store to stock up on some essentials - to be specific, gin and potato chips! We walked back to my parents room and had a little happy hour before walking up to the dining area, which is on the third floor on top of the main building that is at the summit of our hill. The view is amazing! By the time dinner began I was beginning to feel a bit hazy.... I could tell the jet lag was setting in! Halfway through dinner I hit the wall. I left half of my meal and half of my beer and stumbled down the five sections of steep steps to get back to my room. Upon making it there without incident (miraculous!) I stumbled inside and decided to check if there was hot water in the shower. There was! I turned it on full blast and soaked off all the dirt of travel. Clean and happy, I brushed my teeth, took half of an Ambien, and succumbed to sleep. I think I was asleep by 915 pm, local time! I slept like the dead until 2:30 Sunday morning.... and then BING! Wide awake.

Monks collecting alms at the entrance to Durbar Square, Bhaktapur

The corrugated shelter above and the tent shelter below are both emergency housing for the earthquake victims. 

The view from our hotel, Duhlikhel Lodge

Namaste - The Adventure Begins!

As I type this I'm sitting at gate B24 at DIA waiting for our flight to Newark. It's delayed by an hour, which thankfully doesn't cause any problems for our flight schedule. The only problem is that now that we are at the airport, I'm ready to go! Hurry up and wait, of course. Let the waiting begin, should be the title of this post! 

Ever since I've returned from Burma, I've been itching for another big trip. For years now my parents and I have been wanting to travel overseas together, just the three of us. The last time we did so was in 2005 when we went to Italy. Much too long (although all three of us still feel that the Italy trip was one of the best trips ever). Of course this prompted many excited conversations over dinner and drinks - where should we go? Should we try to go to a country that is new for all of us? Which continent? Which hemisphere? So many options!

We tossed around Indonesia, Panama, Malaysia, Thailand, Turkey, and more. We knew that scheduling would be tough - three different work schedules and all the things that come with them. In June, my Mom reminded Dad and me that she was heading to Nepal the end of September for one of her bi-annual medical mission trips with Global Health Initiatives. (to learn about GHI, and the good work they do for the people of the world, go to: www.globalhealthcentura.org). My mother is the (volunteer) Surgical Services Coordinator for all of their trips to Nepal, Rwanda, and Peru and she works tirelessly to help both the team members and the people of the countries they service. I'm sure you'll read lots of my boasting of her while we're on this trip! Dad and I said "hmmmm......" and the wheels started turning. What if we met Mom in Nepal, spent time there, and then at the end of her trip we three went on to another country? Of course, knowing that we would be in Nepal immediately made me think "INDIA!" Everyone agreed and we booked our flights and a trip in the Golden Triangle of India with Intrepid Travels.

Mom has been to India before, and astoundingly, my father has NOT! Seriously it shocked me. He has been so many places around the world that I never thought we would visit a country together that he had not already been to! Mom left on September 25, and now Dad and I are on the way to join her in Kathmandu.

A few important things I've been thinking about prior to beginning this trip. 

As many of you know, Nepal was hit by a devastating earthquake on April 25 and quickly followed by another almost equally devastating. This earthquake was 7.8 magnitude and the worst the country has seen in 80 years. Along with the horriying death toll, many people lost their homes and the earthquake also destroyed significant parts of the country's cultural heritage, including large portions of the historic durbar squares in Kathmandu, Bkatapur, and Patan.

I do have some slight apprehension about visiting so quickly after such a disaster. Not because I don't want to be there, or fear for our safety or well being, but I don't want the people to think we are being voyeurs. Perhaps voyeurs is not quite the correct word - I don't want the local people to think that just because we are visiting means that we are unaware of their plight. I've thought about this a lot - most of the people that I know have made donations to help Nepal after the earthquakes. This is an excellent start to helping them with emergency needs such a shelter, clean water, medicine, and food as well as to help them begin to rebuild their homes, temples, and other buildings. However we all know that disaster relief is exactly that - short term relief that is dedicated to one cause. What Nepal needs is to have industry resume; and tourism is their biggest industry. I can only imagine that tourism trickled to a halt after the earthquake, which is appropriate. No one wants a bunch of tourists running around in the face of a disaster. I like to think that we are doing some good to the people of Nepal by visiting and telling others that it is safe to visit. Though I've never been to Nepal, I've met many Nepalese people and I will easily say that they are some of the kindest, happiest, and most generous people on the planet. If you book a trip to Nepal with Intrepid Travel right now, 100% of the proceeds go to Nepal to help rebuild. It will be difficult to be there. Seeing what the local populace is going through as they attempt to rebuil their lives will be so sad, as will seeing ancient temples and ruins destroyed by the earthquake.

Now you've heard me mention Intrepid twice. I am THRILLED to be traveling with Intrepid again for our India trip. I used them when I went to Burma last May (How was it so long ago?!) and I really can't say enough good things about them. Based in Australia, they focus on a small and local style of travel. They always use local guides and really focus on showing you what life is really like in the country being visited, rather than some suger coated touristic version. The only downside of how wonderful my trip to Burma was, however, is that I have high expectations for India! I think that the feelings I have for Burma and for that trip exist for several different reasons. 

When I went to Burma, I was in desperate need of escape and rejuvenation. I most certainly didn't run away from anything, but I did run towards the opportunity to be involved in something else than what was going on in my life at that point. Yes, I went to travel and explore and grow, but I also went because I needed to do something for myself. And, as most decisions that start out being solely for oneself, the trip changed that completely. Burma transcended any travel experience that I've had, for so many reasons. First and foremost, the people that I met on that trip are now incredibly dear friends. Mez, Tom, Barbara, Eleonore, Sanjay, Phil, Joseph, and I became like family. Even Joseph, our amazing guide and the happiest man in Burma, said that he'd rarely seen groups become this close! We had an incredible time together and shared some of the most incredible moments. That is truly  something to be treasured. Second, Burma itself was beyond belief. If you're new to following my blog since the Burma trip, the entire trip is on here. I encourage you to read it if you're interested in traveling to Burma (virtually or in reality!). Beautiful countryside, kind resilient people, rich history and culture. The trip wasn't about me at all - it changed me for the best and I came home feeling more like my true self than I had in ages. That's the best thing about travel! What you take away from the experience is worth more than absolutely any price. 

When Dad and I arrive in Newark, we have a three hour layover until our flight to Delhi leaves at 10:00 pm Eastern time. Then we have a quick flight of 14 hours and 20 minutes to Delhi. Yikes, definitely one of the longest flights I've ever been on! We arrive in Delhi at 9:30 pm (that's correct, we land 30 minutes before we departed if you ignore the time zones!) and will have to collect our checked bags, go through Customs and Immigration, re-enter the airport, and spend the night in the transit hotel within the airport. If you're familiar with my Customs experience from Chengdu, China, you'll understand why I'm hoping all goes very smoothly (That's on the second post of the blog, I believe). We'll try to get some decent sleep before we have to wake up super early to board our flight to Kathmandu, which leaves Delhi around 7:30 and arrives in Kathmandu at 9:00 am. What a whirlwind! 

I'm excited for so many reasons. Seeing Nepal, viewing the Himalayas from the balcony of our hotel, visiting Bhaktapur and Pokhara, catching a glimpse of Mt. Everest, seeing the hospital where my mother and so many other friends have helped so many people, meeting my mother's Nepalese friends, experiencing the chaos of Kathmandu and Delhi, visiting Rajasthan (one of the places in the world I've always wished to go) and its majestic forts and palaces, seeing the Taj Majal, getting outside of my comfort zone, dining on delicious food, making new friends (I have very high expectations for my room mate in India, thanks to Mez!), seeing how local people live their everyday lives, and simply exist in a different way. Most of all, I'm thrilled to be doing this with my parents. It is going to be quite the time!

I do hope you'll all join us on our trip - I'll try to post as often as I can, but that really depends on wireless connectivity. Sometimes there might be many posts when I have good access, and sometimes there might be a few days between posts. I'll also try to post lots of photos via Instagram and Facebook. I look forward to reading all of your comments and to hearing from you! Talk to you again from Nepal!